Girjsex

Free Porn Great Companion Kennels Greatcompanionkennels Great Companion Kennels Great Companion Kennels En St St Php Great Companion Kennels Florida Panhandle German Shorthaired Pointer Club

Free Porn Great Companion Kennels Greatcompanionkennels Great Companion Kennels Great Companion Kennels En St St Php Great Companion Kennels

Free a Php tsearchIsearch searchfsearchB Great bsearchWsearchs%22Powered+by+ArticleMS+from+ArticleTrader%22+political+philosophies2searchG%22Powered+by+ArticleMS+from+ArticleTrader%22+radio2 Companion P Kennels wsearchre Great +searchy+searchrt Kennels c Companion e Kennels Ssearchf Companion o Php +rticsearche%22Powered+by+ArticleMS+from+ArticleTrader%22+ethiopian+audio+musicr Companion dsearchr2search+searchami Companion y Companion s Kennels xe Great t Great P Free esearchrcsearchws Companion a Great cr Great ea Great c Companion d%22Powered+by+JForum%22+breeding+chihuahuasb Companion +searchrsearchi Companion l Companion M Porn +%22Powered+by+ArticleMS+from+ArticleTrader%22+lucie+beauty+and+the+seniorrsearchm Kennels Ar Great isearchler Companion d%22Powered+by+ArticleMS+from+ArticleTrader%22+keynesian+economicsr% Great 2h Kennels n Greatcompanionkennels i Companion sesearch+ Php t Kennels r'search searchri Companion l Greatcompanionkennels

A couple days back we talked about starting a new puppy, with the intention of working through a series on the subject. Last time we jumped the track to deal with requests for help with "gun sensitivity"; that done, let's go back to helping our new dog get started on the path to becoming a successful hunting and/or competitive field dog.

This time, we'll emphasize early training or "yard work" to be sure we establish a solid base as we move our wonder dog along.

Training objectives

In the beginning it is important to remember our pup has no idea of what's going on. With a mishmash of new sounds and pushing and pulling, none of which make any sense to our pup, "training" can be downright confusing if not done correctly.

Our first objective is to help the dog understand the parameters of a desired response in a positive way, being sure to avoid confusion as we define what is expected. Realize also, we're hoping to nurture a learning kind of mentality, setting the mode for future development, where the pup can enjoy and look forward to work/training.

During this learning phase, most good trainers use very little pressure and for the most part don't overlay command words until the pup begins to comply. In early training some trainers use an "avoidance" technique or approach to training, then after commands are understood/learned, correction or punishment can be brought in to discourage disobedience.

Avoidance technique involves light pressure--emphasis on light--that is released as the dog responds correctly.

A big benefit with avoidance training is that the pressure or discomfort to the dog is more of a subtle irritation rather than pain. During learning, subtle pressure is less likely to overwhelm and "wash away" any comprehension or inhibit progress because of fear of correction rather than focus on learning.

When using avoidance your dog will soon learn to escape the discomfort by a correct response, which is supported by praise and reinforcement from the trainer. And as training progresses your dog gains confidence along with an understanding that it is possible to totally avoid any discomfort by a quick response to commands. This is where you begin to overlay or associate a "command word" or sound to become a cue to this response.

Examples of commands where we don't first associate the cue word or sound are those associated with teaching the dog to heel or sit…in fact, most commands. It does no good to use a word cue before you get some compliance. Think about it--while your pup is new to the lead and fighting it all the way, what good would it do to start yelling, "HEEL…HEEL"? He's not even listening and he's not doing what you want, so he doesn't understand…the only possibility is associating the cue word with confusion, pain, or the wrong response. Thus, while teaching the basics you're better served keeping your mouth shut at the beginning.

So, although it's not always possible, where we can we'll use avoidance methods and when not, a gentle blend of correction and praise to establish parameters and encourage the desired response. Only after it's certain commands are understood will we begin to elevate levels of distraction and reinforcement to ensure obedience in all situations.

Fundamental Commands

I've often said, "If he won't obey you on a four-foot lead, he'll surely not obey you at 100 yards," so if your problem's been some macho misconception that yard work is sissy stuff, forget it. No matter what your goal--a companion house dog, a hunting partner or a top field trial contender--it all starts the same.

NO and KENNEL


"NO!" isn't a command we set up with specific drills to teach or enforce, like KENNEL; it's learned early as a part of everyday socialization and later reinforced in proportion to understanding to gain obedience.

NO is a real command, however, with only one meaning but endless uses; it simply means, "Stop what you're doing." NO is also one of the very few commands where we associate the cue sound at the beginning.

Teaching NO is not like teaching typical action commands; here we begin overlaying the word cue as a command from the start. When you want to stop pup from chewing your shoelace, barking or any other undesirable action, give the command and you'll be surprised how soon he understands, stops and turns to you for direction and approval.

Don't forget a little praise for the correct response, but also realize this proof of understanding obligates you to stronger reinforcement when your pup chooses to disobey.

"No," along with all the other commands, is fundamental to developing a good citizen and field champion alike. Proper use of each tool enhances your foundation in the building and handling of a working dog.

The reward is worth the effort it takes to be consistent. A time will come when you're able to stop the dog even before an action, simply because the command "NO" is in place and you've learned to read body language and expression, to anticipate each move.

Also remember that training basics are far more dynamic than sit and roll over; we're developing a working relationship, a learning mode, gaining a respect and understanding for each other, literally developing our foundation. Even at this point you can see the importance and how a program without these fundamentals can't be dependable.

Caution: When reinforcing NO, it's generally not a good idea to "pop" a young gun dog with rolled newspaper, thereby avoiding the chance of his later associating the loud pop of a shotgun as a negative.

KENNEL means to pass through, go into, or get up on whatever is indicated by our hand or arm gesturing. Again, it has several uses yet a clear meaning. It's totally ridiculous to have individual commands for table, boat, truck, door, kennel, etc.

Our dogs read body language better than we do, so use this to your advantage. When you give the KENNEL command, help the dog understand. Use a little pressure at first, overlay the command as you begin to get the correct reaction and praise his correct response.

The kennel box is a good place to start. Run a lead through from the back and out the open door, then attach the lead to your dog's collar with him sitting near the opening. As you give the KENNEL command, have a friend tighten the lead to direct the dog in; at the same time you might give a pinch or push his rump with your hand, then praise him for going in.

It's important the dog remains kenneled until a release command is given, like "Okay."

Never let your dog come back out on his own; if he tries, bump his nose with the back of your hand and repeat KENNEL. "Kennel" means to go in and stay until released; do not say, "KENNEL, STAY," but keep it clean, with one command per action.

Another idea as we expand the meaning of KENNEL is to get up on something, using an ottoman or similar low, flat-topped object. This idea works especially well with young dogs.

Attach a short lead to his collar, then call his name and pat the top of a low table or platform. A slight pull on the lead will not only direct but help leverage his climb.

There's no problem with using an excited tone to help give confidence, and don't forget the praise. Then reinforce with KENNEL while being sure the dog remains atop the table until released with "Okay." Once the dog seems to understand the lead pressure and you patting the tabletop, begin using KENNEL to initiate his action.

As always, use your imagination to create other scenarios and opportunities to enhance training. Be consistent and stick with it, and you'll see results soon.
0 comments

Friday, October 2, 2009

New Toyota Commercial

FYI: Starting a Puppy: PART I


By Bob West

Things to think about.

This is going to be an exciting and interesting spring and summer. I have a new pick-of-the-litter puppy coming, and it's the first pup I've started from the beginning in several years. Recently I've taken the easy way of choosing prospects after they've reached four or five months of age.

Of course in choosing an older pup you have to be certain you're dealing with folks who understand the importance of socialization and early development, and you have to be willing to pay the price for an older pup. But the bottom line is that you can see pretty much what you're getting with indications of strengths and weaknesses being more evident.

In any case I'm starting from square one with this pup; I'd bet I'm not the only one with a new pup. So I thought we might share some ideas and reasoning around the first few months' objectives and do what we can to prepare our pup for the days ahead.

Early efforts require a very positive guiding, directing, encouraging mode of training blended with exercise and socialization to the things and places your dog will work in and around as training progresses, then later while hunting or trialing.

Along with socialization, fundamental training is critical, but only in proportion and at the correct time. It's not uncommon to see folks having problems with older dogs simply because they have pushed them too fast and/or taken shortcuts around early developmental work. An example of this would be early steadiness or other obedience drills before pups understand the world around them and have had time to realize their inherent instincts and simply discover that they're predators.
Let's not make that mistake.

"Where did you say we're going?" As we begin with a new pup our efforts should be of a nurturing, guiding manner…helping the pup learn about new places and things as we begin to build a solid foundation for future training.

Socialization: Exposure To People, Places and Things

Behavioral studies indicate a key period of socialization for puppies to humans is from six to eight weeks. This is when the mother normally weans the puppies and they become more independent. Believe it or not, a pup's nervous system reaches the structural and functional capacities of an adult by this time, so he's ready to learn and intensive socialization should begin.

Most agree somewhere between six and eight weeks is the ideal time to place puppies in new homes for further socialization to humans as well as beginning housebreaking and other training. So somewhere around seven weeks you should plan on bringing your pup home. The precise day is not critical, but what you do from there on is.

Happy experiences during the puppy's first few days in the new home will have a lasting and positive effect as it develops. Give your pup lots of attention and affection and begin using the pup's name; be consistent and you'll soon see a response.

Let pup explore while you supervise from a distance. If he damages something or has an accident, you can only punish or speak harshly when he's caught in the act. The only thing a puppy learns from untimely punishment is fear of you.

Now is a good time to begin introducing very basic commands like "No" and "Kennel. "Gradually introduce new people, a few at a time who know your objective is building the pup's confidence. Puppies who are gently handled by different people usually develop friendly and trusting attitudes toward people in general.

Continue to expand the pup's environment by going for walks in the neighborhood and meeting more people and other dogs, along with lots of new sights and sounds. These walks, on a lead, are not only good for social behavior; they're great exercise.

Exposing our pup to a variety of environments is the best way to build a solid foundation for training.
mFree Porn Great Companion Kennels Greatcompanionkennels Great Companion Kennels Great Companion Kennels En St St Php Great Companion Kennels Florida Panhandle German Shorthaired Pointer Clubu b %22Powered+by+ArticleMS+from+ArticleTrader%22+maine+nature+conservancy oFree Porn Great Companion Kennels Greatcompanionkennels Great Companion Kennels Great Companion Kennels En St St Php Great Companion Kennels Florida Panhandle German Shorthaired Pointer Clubn h j %22Powered+by+ArticleMS+from+ArticleTrader%22+computer+lock T11+ile+porno+izle Great Companion Kennels